This recipe calls for morels. I guess the 'morel' of this story is that if a recipe calls for really expensive and difficult-to-find ingredients like fresh morels, it is our job as cooks to come up with options that are readily available and don't break the bank.
The first time I made this dish, I did use fresh morels. They were good and, as an aside, very photogenic.
But when I went to buy morels last week to make it for Patrician's birthday dinner, morels weren't available and I made it with quartered cremini mushrooms. I liked it equally as well for both taste and texture.
I think this has taught me that expensive or rare ingredients can easily be substituted if they are neither affordable nor available.
I love the subtle combinations of flavors in this dish - saffron steeped in rosé wine for the poaching, mushrooms, fava beans and peas - all so earthy and savory. It gets so creamy, too, with very little cream. (That's "very little" with a grain of salt...) I decided that a little crunch was needed at the end - so added some crisped tiny cubes of pancetta. The perfect topping!
By the way, any dish with copious amounts of saffron is A.O.K. by me! The original recipe didn't even call for it, but I found it adds a wonderful depth to both the broth and the sauce. Buying my saffron by the ounce online makes it very affordable. About $55-$60 per ounce on Amazon (as opposed to $10-$15 per gram in stores).
While I don't often make things with cream sauces, there are times it is just the right thing. This birthday party was one of those times. And it also afforded me the opportunity to set the table with our new sauce spoons, wedding gifts from our friends Jill & Dave and Dan & Mike.
The cooking time for this dish is minimal; all the ingredients can be prepped in advance. A few minutes in your kitchen is all you need, while your guests continue to nibble on hors d'œurvres.
And those few minutes in the kitchen give you a chance to make sure the rosé you have chosen tastes just as good in a glass as it does in the creamy sauce.
~ David
Poached Salmon with Peas, Fava Beans and Morels
4 6-ounce center-cut salmon fillets, skinned (about 1 1/4-inch thick)
1 cup rosé wine
2 teaspoons kosher salt plus more for seasoning
1 teaspoon saffron threads, divided
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 ounces fresh morel (whole) or cremini mushrooms (quartered)
1 cup shelled fresh (or frozen) peas
1 cup double-shelled fresh (or frozen) fava beans
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1/2 cup heavy cream
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons minced fresh chives
1/2 cup diced pancetta
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
4 sprigs of thyme
Place salmon, skinned side down, in a large high-sided skillet. Add wine, 2 tablespoons salt, 1/2 teaspoon saffron threads and cold water to cover salmon by 1/2 inch. Cover pan; bring liquid to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, uncover, and gently poach salmon until just cooked through and barely opaque in the center, about 3-5 minutes, depending on thickness. Transfer salmon and 2 tablespoons poaching liquid to a plate; tent loosely with foil. Reserve poaching liquid.
Meanwhile, melt butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to soften, about 3 minutes. Add 1/2 cup salmon poaching liquid, peas, fava beans, thyme leaves and remaining 1/2 teaspoon saffron threads, and simmer until peas and beans begin to soften, 2-3 minutes. Add cream and bring sauce to a simmer. Cook until slightly thickened, about 3-5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
While sauce is simmering, heat the pancetta and olive oil in a small non-stick pan, and sauté until crisp. (Pancetta can be crisped ahead and left to drain on a paper towel.)
Using a spatula, transfer salmon to serving plates and spoon sauce over, dividing the mushrooms and vegetables evenly. Garnish with chives, pancetta, and thyme sprigs.
Serves 4.
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| For Patrician, I went over the top and garnished with crisped tiny cubes of pancetta. |
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| I found these really cute mini heads of romaine - perfect for a composed salad. |
Labels: fava beans, morel mushrooms, morels, pancetta, peas, poached salmon, rosé, saffron, salmon
