Cocoa and Lavender: A Venetian Favorite

Prior to visiting Venice two years ago, I would never have imagined that my favorite Venetian pasta dish would have been based on two humble ingredients: anchovies and onions.

But that is what happened. In fact, it was the first pasta dish I ordered in Venice, at the Taverna San Trovaso, a restaurant favored by locals, and recommended to us by our friend Roque.

It is in the Dosoduro section of the city, not far from the Accademia Museum, and the Peggy Guggenheim Museum, where Roque works.

When we arrived at the Taverna, the noontime crowd was noisy, and seating looked impossible. We were, however, led up a narrow stairway at the back to a large upper dining room, and were seated next to a French couple.

While we didn't chat with them, we did eavesdrop and, when her seafood pasta arrived and she asked for cheese, we got to share in the earful she received from the waiter. Where seafood and fish are involved in Italy, cheese is NOT. It's a rule, and one not to be broken.

It was a raw and windy day, spitting cold rain, so Mark decided quickly on a traditional and fortifying fegato alla Venezia (basically, a Venetian liver and onions). I, however, asked our server to recommend a few other local dishes, seeking something I had never had before.

One of the first recommendations out of his mouth was Bigoli in Salsa. Bigoli is a thick, spaghetti-like pasta made from wheat flour, similar to pici found in Tuscany, or bucatini in Rome, although it is not hollow like bucatini.

The sauce is simply anchovies (the salted variety) cooked in some olive oil until they become a paste, with sliced onions added and cooked until caramelized.

Yes. That's it. So simple, and so seductive. Since having this at the Taverna in Venice, I have started buying good quality anchovies… in bulk!

This dish could turn an anchovy-hater into an anchovyphile.

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 2-ounce tin anchovies in oil, drained

1 large onion, 8-12 ounces

freshly ground black pepper

6 ounces bigoli, or thick spaghetti

Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the drained anchovies and sauté them until they break down and become paste-like. While the anchovies are cooking, peel and thinly slice the onion lengthwise.

Heat a large pot of water for the pasta.

Add the onion to the anchovy paste, reduce heat to medium and cook, covered, until onions are caramelized, about 20-30 minutes. You may need to add a couple of tablespoons of water to the onions at about 15 minutes to keep them from burning. Season well with freshly ground black pepper, and a little salt if the anchovies are not salty enough.

When the onions are caramelized, cook the pasta in well-salted water until al dente. Add the pasta to the onion-anchovy sauce, and toss. Add a little of the cooking water, to thin the sauce enough to coat each strand of pasta well.

Divide among two bowls, and serve. And please do not add cheese. This is a dish served as is!