In Provence the jeux de boules - also called pétanques or jeu Provençal - is a very popular and pleasant way to pass a summer afternoon.
I have never played, but have observed many games during visits to France. It’s very relaxing to watch.
The boules used to play the game are rather large - about 3 inches in diameter. When talking about culinary balls - meatballs, and such - the size is much smaller, usually an inch or less.
In the kitchen, they are called boulettes. And that brings us to today’s recipe for Boulettes de Poisson à la Marseillaise, or fish balls from Marseille served in a luxurious broth, to be tested with two very special rosés from Château d’Esclans. To read more about the wine and food pairings, go to the Provence WineZine.
This recipe is based on one by renowned chef Gérald Passédat and can be found in his book, Flavors from the French Mediterranean. I discovered his work through Perfectly Provence, a site dedicated to all the wonders of Provence, curated by Carolyne Kauser-Abbott. I am fortunate to work with Carolyne as one of more than 50 contributors to the site. For Provence food and travel ideas, this is one of my favorite places to go for information and inspiration.
After ordering the book, I was inspired to make this soup for the wine pairing, but also to showcase the beautiful silver ladle recently gifted to me by friends.. They love good wines, and were interested in the wine tasting, so we made a party of the evening!
This broth is full of Mediterranean flavors - floral fennel and earthy saffron - and the boulettes add tastes from the southern coast with Moroccan preserved lemons, cumin, and cilantro.
I like to prepare the broth a day in advance to allow the flavors to meld. I serve the baked boulettes to my guests at the table and then ladle over the broth and pass the garnish. It makes for a fun and dramatic presentation.
Play boules!
~ David
Boulettes de Poisson à la Marsaillaise {Marseille-Style Fish Balls}
Adapted from the recipe by Gérald Passedat
2 pounds sea bream fillets, cut into small dice *
1 Moroccan preserved lemon, rinsed (pulp removed) and chopped
1 small bunch cilantro, finely chopped
2 ounces sun-dried tomatoes, finely chopped
1 small bunch chives, snipped
2 shallots, peeled and chopped
olive oil
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
2 eggs
1/2 cup flour
3 cups bread crumbs
2 fennel bulbs, cut in 1/3-inch dice, fronds reserved
1 pound potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/3-inch dice
1 onion, cut into 1/3-inch dice
1 sachet saffron powder
1 star anise
9 cups fish stock
salt and pepper
Cook the shallot in a little olive oil over medium-low heat until clear. In a large bowl, mix the cooked shallot, chopped preserved lemon rind, cilantro, sun-dried tomatoes, and chives. Add the diced fish, cumin, turmeric, and the eggs. Season with salt and pepper and mix well.
Shape this mixture into small balls (about 40), roll them in flour, roll them in your palms, then in bread crumbs to coat well. Set them on a foil-lined baking sheet. It helps to rinse and moisten your hands ever 4 balls or so. If you don't much of the mixture will stick to your hands. (make these 4-6 hours ahead and refrigerate).
In a stock pot over medium-high heat, add a splash of olive oil and cook the fennel, potatoes, and onion until the vegetables are soft. Add the saffron, star anise, and fish stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer over low heat for 45 minutes. (This can be made a day in advance, and reheated before serving.)
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Drizzle the fish balls with a little olive oil, then season with salt and pepper. Bake for 15 minutes. To finish, broil the balls fro 2-3 minutes to add some nice color.
Place 5 fish balls into 8 serving bowls. Ladle the broth over the fish balls, garnish with fennel fronds, and serve.
Serves 8.
* or monkfish, striped bass, turbot, or any firm white fish. I used tilapia, as Whole Foods forgot to place my order.
Labels: boulettes de poisson, fennel, fish balls, flavors from the french mediterranean, gérald passédat, Provence, saffron, soup
