It was the 1970s; I was in high school, and it wasn’t pretty.
Bad hair, worse fashions, optimal nerdiness, and prolific pimples.
A lowly sophomore in an advanced French class, I met Braiden. She was a cool senior and should have shunned me, but was never anything but kind... a kindness I have never forgotten.
As is often the case, we lost track of one another after her graduation. Can you imagine a world without Facebook, Instagram, or even LinkedIn? There was such a day... it was hard to keep up with even one’s best of friends.
Then, one day in an e-enlightened decade, I found her on Facebook and discovered that she, like me, is passionate about food and wine. The big difference is that she has made it a career and, perhaps one day when I grow up, I will do the same.
Braiden is very talented - as a writer, cook, and photographer. Check out her website Of floral watercolors, Braiden Blossoms, or her cookbooks. (You can find used copies online - her most recent is Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining.)
When I was going to a “Pacific Northwest” themed dinner party and needed to take a first course, I consulted her cookbooks for ideas. I found the original inspiration for this tart - a Blue Goat Cheesecake.
With her permission, I made changes and created two new versions, more like a tart than a cheesecake. Each is filled with wonderful autumnal flavors starting with the nut crust and finishing with a dark, intense chestnut honey I’d brought back from Italy.
Since starting this post and finally publishing it today, I had a wonderful visit with Braiden and her husband Spencer, and another high school friend Barb and her husband in Seattle. How wonderful it was to reconnect and share stories… and, of course, talk about food.
The first was made with a blue goat cheese from Fiore di Capra, and the second with a creamy Danish blue. One crust was made with walnuts (per Braiden’s original recipe) and the other with hazelnuts. To the second tart I added slices of the season’s last fresh figs - a delicately sweet counterpart for the blue cheese and earthy honey.
Summer is long over but, when you have dishes like this to make, autumn seems pretty wonderful, too.
~ David
Blue Cheese Tart (sometimes with Figs!)
Based on the recipe by Braiden Rex-Johnson
Pike Place Market Cookbook
Crust
1 cup panko bread crumbs
2 ounces toasted shelled walnuts or toasted hazelnuts
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary or thyme
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
Filling
4 ounces blue goat cheese, or other soft blue cheese, softened
4 ounces mascarpone cheese
1/4 cup milk
1 large egg
1 1/2 tablespoons flour
1 tablespoon brandy
salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
3 fresh figs, cut pole-to-pole in 1/4-inch slices
chestnut honey, or other flavorful honey, for serving
additional quartered figs, for serving
Preheat oven to 350°F.
Chop panko, nuts, and rosemary or thyme in a food processor until the nuts are finely ground. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture clumps - it will not form a ball.
Transfer crust mixture to an 8-inch springform pan, the bottom of which has been lined with parchment, and press it into the bottom and at least 1 inch up the sides. I like to use the bottom of a glass to tamp the bottom; it gives you a nice, compact, and even crust.
Blind bake the crust for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, whisk together all the ingredients for the filling. You can use the food processor for this, as well. Just wipe out any crumbs from the crust - no need to clean it between these steps
When the crust is ready, pour the filling into the crust, top with fig slices (if using). and bake for 25-30 minutes. The top may crack but don’t worry - it will still taste fine! (When using figs, the longer baking time is needed, as they add extra moisture.)
Allow to cool before removing the sides of the pan. Cut into slices, drizzle with chestnut honey and add a spoonful of honey on the side. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Pairs well with a late-harvest Riesling, Sauternes, or Tariquet Premières Grives.
Makes 6 first course servings.Labels: bleu cheese, blue cheese, blue goat cheese, braiden rex-johnson, braiden's blossoms, nut crust, pacific northwest wining and dining, savory tart
