According to Giselle Philippi, the chef at Le Sud en Haut in Marseille, people often have to make a choice. In most restaurants, they must choose between the Steak au Poivre, or the Steak aux Échalotes.
Her feeling is, “Why not have both?” That would be my way of looking at it, as well. Her recipe combines the two into a spicy explosion of sweet and hot.
And, thus, when Susan and Towny (from the Provence WineZine) were here in Tucson in the summer, I made Philippi’s recipe to pair with a 2011 Saint Sauveur from L’Abbaye de Lérins. To learn more about the wine and food pairing, head over to the WineZine for a read. For the meat of the issue, stay with me for a while...
I was at the American Eat Company to meet colleagues for happy hour the evening before Susan and Towny arrived. The American Eat Co. occupies the old American Meat Co. building in South Tucson. (Get it? American Meat became American Eat?) They transformed the old meat packing plant into a fun and eclectic food court - a little something for everyone!
At one counter, you can get great ribs , at another Latino delights, then on to poke bowls, pizza, Greek cuisine, sliders, Mexican baked goods, and locally-made ice cream. Of course there is a bar, too, just to make sure you don’t go thirsty!
Among them all, tucked back into the corner, is a wonderful butcher shop called Dos Amigos. Run by Andres and his lovely fiancée Yesenia, the shop supplies the meat for the above mentioned vendors. Their meats are beautiful and, knowing I was planning this dish for dinner, I was inspired to get my beef there. If you are in Tucson, you should definitely stop in.
My inspiration went a little further when I found some fresh morel mushrooms at the grocery store. They weren’t called for in Philippi’s recipe but Towny and I thought a few sautéed slices atop the steak wouldn’t hurt anyone. (Warning: eating them raw, however, is dangerous! Always cook your morels and don’t eat too many!)
It was a wonderful evening. We were joined by their daughter, Alex, who was traveling from the West Coast back East, and our friend Barbara. Wine poured freely, laughter and stories ensued, and we ended the evening talking about things we want to accomplish in our lives, along with the places we want to go.
They were good questions - and a reminder never to take what we have for granted. I ask you: what do you want to accomplish in your life? And where is someplace special you would like to visit?
~ David
Filet de Bœuf Poêlé au Poivre Concassé sur Échalotes Confites
Steak au Poivre with Caramelized Shallots
From Giselle Philippi, Made in Marseille by Daniel Young
5-6 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
4 tablespoons butter, divided
2 teaspoons honey
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/2 cup white wine
salt and pepper to taste
4 ounces morel or other wild mushrooms
splash of Madeira
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 six-ounce filet mignon, trimmed
2 tablespoons peppercorns
herbes de Provence
fresh chervil or parsley for garnish
Melt two tablespoons of butter in a medium skillet and add the shallots. Cook over medium heat for 4-5 minutes until the shallots are soft and beginning to turn golden. Add the honey and lemon juice, and continue cooking until the shallots are very dark and caramelized. Add the wine, and cook down until the mixture is syrupy, 3-4 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and set aside.
Clean, trim, and slice the mushrooms. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a skillet and add mushrooms, sautéing then until soft and fragrant. Add a splash of Madeira (or port, or wine) and cook until it has reduced. Remove from the heat, cover, and set aside.
Using a mortar and pestle, coarsely crack the black peppercorns and spread them evenly on a plate. Pat steaks dry with paper towels, and press both sides of the filets into the peppercorns. Then sprinkle both sides liberally with the herbes de Provence.
In a large skillet, heat the oil over high heat. When very hot - almost smoking - add the filets, reduce heat to medium-high and sear for 3-4 minutes on the first side, then about 3 minutes on the second side (for medium rare). Your timing will depend on the thickness of your filets and your heat source. Using an instant read thermometer is the best way to ensure accuracy. (130°F for rare, 145°F for medium rare, 160°F for medium, and 170°F for well done.)
While the steaks are searing, reheat the shallots and mushrooms.
To plate, divide the shallot mixture among four serving plates. Top with a steak, and then top the steak with a few mushroom slices and a sprinkling of chervil or parsley.
Makes 4 servings.
Labels: Abbaye de Lerins, filet mignon, giselle philippi, Made in Marseille, shallot reduction, steak au poivre
