Popcorn, butter, and salt. (Okay, almost
anything with butter and salt.) Lamb, rosemary, and Dijon mustard. Tomatoes, olives, and capers. Ahi tuna, ginger, and sesame.
They just work. They become go-to combinations for our every night meals.
Another favorite is mushrooms, nuts, and cognac.
Today, using a few of the Piedmontese hazelnuts my friend Nancy brought back from Italy, I bring you a recipe inspired by some beautiful chanterelle mushrooms I found at the store. I can’t resist them when they are in season!
The sauce combines chanterelles, some pink oyster mushrooms (any oyster mushroom will work — I got these from Laura’s Locals at our farmers market), shallots, herbs, cognac, and a bit of cream. I served it on pappardelle and topped it with chopped hazelnuts.
The crunch of the nuts with the earthy, meaty mushrooms is truly delicious. Add a little Parmigiano-Reggiano and it is pretty much heaven on a plate.
It’s a great marriage. You may now kiss the cook.
~ David
Pappardelle with Chanterelles and Hazelnuts
Inspired by a recipe from Food & Wine
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 pound chanterelle mushrooms, sliced
4 ounces oyster mushrooms, sliced
salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 large shallot, minced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
pinch crushed red pepper
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
3/4 cup chicken stock
1/4 cup Cognac
1/3 cup heavy cream
12 ounces pappardelle
1/4 cup snipped chives
1/2 cup hazelnuts, toasted and chopped
Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving
Bring a large pot of water to a simmer.
In a large, deep skillet, cook the butter over moderate heat until lightly browned. Add the chanterelles and oyster mushrooms, season well with salt and black pepper and cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are golden — about 8-10 minutes. Add the shallot, thyme and crushed red pepper and cook over moderately high heat for 5 minutes, stirring. Add the vinegar and cook, stirring, until the liquid has evaporated. Add the stock and Cognac; simmer until reduced by half, 10 minutes. Season with salt and black pepper.
Add a fistful of salt to the pot of boiling water, add the pappardelle, and cook until al dente. Drain and add the pasta to the skillet, along with the cream. Cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the pasta is coated with the sauce, about 2 minutes. Stir in chives. Divide among four shallow bowls and top with the chopped hazelnuts. Pass the Parmigiano-Reggiano at the table.
Serves 4.
