Getting Down to the Nitty Gritti (Palace)

As a wedding gift, my brother Mark and his wife Lori gave us a spectacular afternoon in Venice.


A Primer on Cicchetti

The American sense of “Italian food” is derived from a limited and commercialized repertoire ultimately derived from Sicily and Calabria. But a mountainous land that was not unified into a single nation until the 1860s has evolved over the centuries to offer many distinctive local culinary traditions that survive.


Into the Venetian Lagoon

From the moment we decided to go to Venice, Mark insisted on an excursion to the island of Torcello out in the Venetian lagoon.


The Rialto Market

I love the daily market in Venice, at the north end of the Rialto bridge.


An Old Flame Rekindled

Here in Venice, for the first time, I find that I fall in love at every corner turned. An architecturally perfect palazzo. A canal filled with sleek black gondolas overly decorated with bright seahorses, intricate velvets and tassels. Intricate 12th-century mosaics covering the ceiling of the Basilica of San Marco. The riot of colored houses on the island of Burano. The delightful sound of a small orchestra playing chestnuts while a couple poses for their wedding photographs in Caffè Florian. A love lock on the Academia Bridge.