Thanks to the globalization of food, we are seeing many more recipes that use rosewater as a flavoring.
While this was a quotidian experience in ancient Persia, Turkey, Morocco, and even in Renaissance Italy, it isn’t something you see, smell, or taste often in Snowflake, Arizona or Peru, Nebraska. But now, such ingredients are available everywhere, often in local shops but, inevitably, online.
I have always liked rosewater as a flavoring but have learned - as I did with lavender - that you need to be careful with the amount you use, paying close attention to the strength of the additive.
Today’s recipe calls for 1 1/2 tablespoons of rosewater. I was out of it (how did that happen?) so ran to the store and bought a small bottle.
What I came home with is not the rosewater of ancient Persia. It is a high-quality extract by Nielsen-Massey. Big difference.
Rosewater is generally very floral in scent but mild flavored, so 1 1/2 tablespoons would be fine. But, as it turns out, not with the extract I grabbed from the store shelf. A little goes a long way. I learned the hard way when I served this roulade to guests - it seemed to be filled with hand cream. After further experiment, you can see in the recipe below how little I use.
If you are unsure about the strength of your rosewater, add a little at a time as you beat it into the mascarpone cream, keeping in mind that it will be significantly diluted when you add almost two cups of cream.
This Ottolenghi recipe was introduced to me by my friend, Ruth, but in pavlova form. I opted for the original roulade because I would never alter a recipe... Except that I skipped the dried rose petals, increased the raspberries and pistachios, and - oh, yes - I added a few drops of food coloring because I wanted a pink dessert. So sue me.
This revised roulade has been a great hit. In the immortal words of Shirley & Lee in their 1961 hit, “C’mon Baby Let the Good Times Roulade.”
~ David
Meringue Roulade with Rose Cream and Raspberries
Minimally adapted from Plenty More by Ottolenghi
Meringue
4 large egg whites
1 1/4 cups superfine sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar or lemon juice
1 teaspoon cornstarch
Rose Cream
4 ounces mascarpone
4-6 drops red food dye (optional)
3 tablespoons confectioners' sugar
1/2 teaspoon rose water extract
1 3/4 cups heavy cream
2 cups fresh raspberries
1-2 tablespoons coarsely chopped raw pistachios
Confectioner's sugar, for dusting, optional
Preheat the oven to 325°F/160°C.
Line the base and sides of a 13 by 9-inch sheet pan with parchment paper. Allow the paper to rise about 3/8 inch/1 cm above the sides of the pan. To make the meringue, in a large bowl, beat the egg whites with an electric mixer until they begin to firm up. Add the superfine sugar to the whites in a slow stream. Continue beating until a firm, glossy meringue forms. Using a large metal spoon, gently fold in the vanilla, vinegar, and cornstarch. Spread the mixture inside the prepared pan and level with an offset spatula.
Bake for 30 minutes, until a crust forms and the meringue is cooked through (it will still feel soft to the touch). Remove from the oven and allow to cool in the pan.
Unmold the cooled meringue onto a fresh piece of parchment paper. Carefully peel off the lining paper. The crust will crack and splinter - don’t worry, it’s part of the charm!
Meanwhile, make the rose cream. Place the mascarpone, red food dye (if using), confectioners' sugar, and rose water extract in the large bowl of a stand mixer, and whisk until smooth. Add the cream and whisk until the cream just holds its shape. Do not over mix lest it will make the cream too stiff.
Spread most of the mascarpone cream over the original underside of the meringue, reserving enough to dollop on top. Leave a small border around the edge of the meringue. Scatter 1 1/2 cup of the raspberries evenly over the cream.
Use the parchment paper to assist you in rolling. Starting from a long edge roll up the meringue into a log shape. Carefully transfer the log onto a serving platter; the meringue will crack, but that is part of its charm. Dollop the remaining cream on top of the log. Chill for at least 30 minutes.
When ready to serve, add remaining raspberries on top, sprinkle with pistachios, and then - if you like - dust the log with confectioners' sugar. Refrigerate for an hour before serving.
Serves 8-10.
Labels: mascarpone cheese, meringue roulade, Ottolenghi, rosewater, toulade
