Magazines

I have previously discussed my (former) addiction to cooking magazines. I am happy to report I am doing well.

I haven’t succumbed to Bon Appétit’s relentless renewal letters or “please come back” pleas. They would make the first year free, but I am strong enough to say, “No, thank you.” Same with Food & Wine. No matter how good the deal you are offering, I just say no. (Insert nod to Nancy Reagan...)

When the English edition of La Cucina Italiana went away, I think something inside of me died. It was my favorite. But I had to go on...

Now, I receive only two magazines in the mail... one is Saveur, which I have been getting since its first issue in 1994. I love the global aspect, and it’s (mostly) authentic recipes. The other is Milk Street. Through friends who know him, I was encouraged to check out Christopher Kimball’s new venture. I like it much more than I liked Cook’s Illustrated, finding it filled with more recipes and a lot less of the process and angst.

On occasion, Milk Street will offer a “fix” for a recipe to make it easier for the general populace to pull off. An example is adding cornstarch – cornstarch!! – to Spaghetti alla Carbonara or Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe. To me, this is just wrong. I want to say, “Oh, for Pete’s sake... put on your big boy apron and learn how to make the original!” But that’s my issue, isn’t it?

I especially like the weeknight meals section called Tuesday Nights. It offers six simple and flavorful meals that you can easily make on any workday evening.

A caveat... these recipes use a lot of off-the-beaten-path ingredients. I’m lucky that I obsessively collect these kinds of ingredients and have most on hand. It might prove a challenge for some. For example, today’s soup recipe calls for ají amarillo paste. Not something you find in every larder. Lucky for me, I had some leftover from when I made Lomo Saltado. It adds a nice heat to the dish but in no way would you call it spicy.

Save for the cream, this is an incredibly healthy dish. And a little cream won’t hurt you. Just ask Julia Child...

~ David

Peruvian Chupe de Quinoa
Minimally adapted from the recipe at Milk Street

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large red onion, diced
1/4 cup ají amarillo paste
3 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
1 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
6 cups chicken broth
1 medium sweet potato, peeled and diced (1/2-inch)
kernels from 3 ears of corn
3/4 cup quinoa, rinsed
1/2 cup cream
fresh mint sprigs, for serving
lime wedges, for serving 

In a large soup pot, sauté the red onion in olive oil over medium heat until soft and beginning to brown - about 10 minutes.

Increase the heat to medium-high. Add the ají amarillo paste, oregano, salt, and pepper, and cook for about a minute to intensify the flavors.

Add the broth, sweet potato, corn, and quinoa. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to keep at a brisk simmer. Cook for 20-25 minutes, or until sweet potatoes are tender.

Remove from heat and stir in the cream. Ladle into bowls and serve with mint sprigs and lime wedges for your guests to tear and squeeze over their serving.

Serves 4-6.

There are many versions of this soup from Peru. Some add chicken, others add shrimp. The mixture of vegetable also seems to vary - I suppose it depends on what is in your larder. You can try some of these additions:
   - diced red bell pepper
   - green beans, cut into 1-inch lengths
   - cooked chicken thighs, shredded
   - add raw shrimp for the last 3-4 minutes of cooking



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