Last fall, while wandering through the Sunday morning Heirloom Farmers Market, I spotted this beauty.
I had to have it. But, I had run out of cash. You see, I give myself a weekly market allowance.
The farmer said, “It was meant to be yours. Pay me next week.” (I did.)
“What is it?” “A pumpkin,” she said. Okaaaay.... or a coach for Cinderella, had she a problem with warts?
Actually, I think it is absolutely beautiful. But, once I had it home, I was paralyzed - what do I do with it?
It adorned our hearth for a couple of months. Mark kept asking if it would go bad, or if I was ever going do anything with it.
I eventually googled “bumpy blue-green pumpkin” and found out it’s an Italian heirloom variety called Marina di Chioggia, often referred to as Zucca Santa (holy pumpkin) or Zucca Barucca. It is used a lot in the Veneto for ravioli, cicchetti, risotti, gnocchi, and simply eaten roasted plain. Today's recipe, other than the roasting, is a risotto.
One January weekend afternoon, I decided to bite the bullet and fire up the oven. I sliced this 12-pound behemoth into 1 1/2-inch slices - I think between 20-24 - and roasted them until they were caramelized and tender.
This made about 8 cups of pumpkin purée, which I froze in smaller portions to use throughout the year.
It was a great investment!
~ David
Roasted Marina di Chioggia Pumpkin
1 pumpkin - 10-12 pounds – or other variety
olive oil
Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil, and brush it liberally with olive oil.
Wash pumpkin and cut in half. Scoop out seeds and the thin fibrous layer. Slice into 1 1/2-inch slices, and place as many slices as possible on their sides on the oiled foil. You will need to roast in batches.
Roast the squash for 30-40 minutes, turning once, until it is caramelized and pierces easily with a sharp knife. Remove slices to a cutting board, and repeat the roasting with remaining slices until they are all roasted. You may need to add more oil, or replace the foil if it tears.
Once cool. Cut off the skin with a sharp knife; discard skin, and add roasted flesh to the bowl of a food processor. Process in pulses until smooth, then freeze in 1 1/2-cup amounts for future use.
Note: I did not season the squash so that it can be used in both savory and sweet preparations.
Pumpkin Risotto
Note: this is not a traditional version, per se, although it is inspired by traditional Italian flavor combinations and simplicity.
6 cups light chicken or vegetable stock
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
1 shallot, minced
1 1/2 cups arborio rice
1 cup white wine
1 1/2 cups roasted pumpkin purée, warmed
6-8 fresh sage leaves, chopped
salt and freshly ground white pepper1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
4 amaretti cookies, crushed
Bring broth to a boil on the back burner, then reduce heat and keep it at a low simmer.
In a large pot over medium-high heat, melt olive oil and butter together. Add the shallot and sauté until clear, but not brown. Add the rice and cook, stirring, for a few minutes until rice turns opaque. Add the wine, and continue stirring until almost all the liquid has evaporated. Then, add a ladleful (1/2 cup) of the hot broth and continue stirring until the rice has absorbed most of the liquid. You can tell it’s right when you drag your spoon across the bottom of the pan and it briefly leaves a clear trail. Continue adding the broth, one ladleful at a time, in the same manner until you have but one ladleful left.
Add the pumpkin and sage, and cooked for a couple of minutes until fully warmed through. Then add the final ladleful of broth, season with salt and white pepper, and stir until the risotto is al ondine (literally “wavy” - not too dry or too wet). Stir in the Parmigiano-Reggiano, and then divide among 4 bowls. Sprinkle each serving with a quarter of the crushed amaretti crumbs.
Serves 4.
Labels: marina di chioggia pumpkin, pumpkin risotto, roasted pumpkin
