Learning to be Flexible in Palermo

Mark will tell you that, when shopping for the ingredients for a specific dish, I have been known to go into a tailspin if the exact ingredients aren’t available.

La Cattedrale di Palermo
Being the diplomat that he is, he tries to calm me down and suggest substitutions or alternative dishes. It is usually the moment when I am my least flexible.

Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio, "La Martorana"
“No, there are no substitutes!” Me? Stubborn?

Santa Caterina
It’s not stubbornness, really. It’s respect for the food.

Dinner at La Galleria
When we were in Palermo in October, we had our first meal out at La Galleria, thanks to our wonderful Airbnb hosts Fabi and Zoltán, who gave up their reservation for us. We had a pasta dish that was so good that I wanted to recreate it so that I could share it here with you.

San Cataldo
(This is another photo-filled post - please enjoy, and stay tuned for a couple more posts from our trip to Sicily.)

San Giovanni degli Eremiti
The main component of the dish was fresh tuna. Palermo is home to a major fishing industry, one that is known for its beautiful tuna.

Oratoria di Santa Cita
So this boy from the Arizona desert went in search of fresh tuna, as well as the other ingredients, in the famed Ballarò market.

The Ballarò Market
Alas, said boy from the desert had no idea there was a season for tuna, and this wasn’t it. D’oh!

The faces of the Palazzo Abatellis
No tuna was to be found and any of the dozen fish stalls. Mark sensed an imminent meltdown but knew better than to suggest a substitute.

I felt I had to make it - we had all the other ingredients. So, I put on my big boy pants, turned to Mark and asked, “What if we used swordfish instead of tuna?”

I thought he was going to faint.

Once upon a time... love is everything, and life is beautiful.
That day, I got a taste of flexibility. I am sure it will be a steep learning curve for me, but I am going to do my best to excel in this brave new world of flexibility.

Our beautiful apartment in Palermo
(Wish Mark luck!)

~ David

Linguine con Tonno (o Pesce Spada), Zucchine, Bottarga, e Lime
Linguine with Tuna (or Swordfish), Zucchini, Bottarga, and Lime

2 small zucchine
12 ounces linguine
olive oil, q.b. (quanto basta - Italian for however much you need)
1 small onion or 1 shallot, diced
1 pound fresh tuna or swordfish steak, diced
2 limes, finely zested and juiced, both reserved separately
salt and freshly ground pepper

grated bottarga di tonno (compressed tuna roe), q.b., for serving.


Using a vegetable peeler, peel the zucchine (in Italian this vegetable is feminine so ends with an “e” in its plural form, zucchina for just one) in long pieces. Cut the peel into 1-inch long pieces and reserve. Using the coarse side of a box grater, grate the flesh of the zucchine on all sides until you hit the seeds. Don’t grate the seeds; discard the seedy cores. Set aside the grated zucchine flesh.

Set a large pot of salted water to boil for the pasta. Have all other ingredients ready to go.

Add the pasta to the boiling water and immediately start the sauce. Heat a couple of tablespoons oil in a large skillet and add the onion or shallot. When clear, add the reserved zucchine peel and grated zucchine. The grated zucchine will almost melt as you cook it. Add more olive oil if necessary.

Add the diced tuna and sauté until just cooked. Add the lime juice and cook a few minutes longer, being careful not to overcook the fish. Season with salt and pepper.

When pasta is al dente, drain it and reserve some of the cooking liquid. Add the pasta to the pan with the tuna and continue to cook a minute or so, allowing the pasta to absorb the flavors. Add some of the reserved cooking liquid if it gets even slightly dry.

Divide the pasta and pan sauce among four warmed pasta plates. Sprinkle with lime zest and then the grated bottarga. Serve immediately.

Serves 4.



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