Going Nuts!

I generally don’t need much of an excuse to go nuts in the kitchen, but this week I had a great excuse. My friend Todd brought me some organic toasted hazelnuts from his recent trip to the Piedmont in Italy.

Hazelnuts, also known in English as filberts, are called nocciole in Italy, noisettes in France, and go by the cognate haselnüße in Germany.

Flavor in fruits, vegetables, and nuts is variable depending on the weather and growing conditions, and this year was a banner year for these little golden-brown nuggets in Langa. I am doling them out carefully among several recipes for which the flavor will really make a difference.

Today’s risotto, for example. When I say I went nuts with this recipe, I did so using two nuts. The hazelnuts from Todd and some chestnuts. With pumpkin. Wow. And the hazelnuts were the crowning touch.

Such an autumnal dish, redolent with the scents and flavors and colors of the season, and warming on a chilly all night!

Even if you don’t have hazelnuts from the Piedmont, use what you can find and I am sure this risotto will delight you. The dark richness of the pumpkin and chestnuts is nicely enhanced by the nuttiness of the hazelnuts.

~ David

Chestnut-Pumpkin Risotto with Hazelnuts

6 cups vegetable broth
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 shallot, diced
1 carrot, diced
1 stick celery, diced
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
1 cup white wine
1 cup roasted pumpkin purée *
6-8 ounces cooked chestnuts, sliced
salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
2 tablespoons butter
a squeeze fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup hazelnuts, skinned and toasted, coarsely chopped

     * I roasted some small sweet pumpkins. 

       This is definitely more flavorful than using canned pumpkin.

Bring the broth to a simmer in a small pot on the back burner.

In a large pot, warm the olive over medium heat. Add the shallot, carrot, and celery, and cook for several minutes, until the vegetables are softened but not browned. Add the rice, stir to coat with the oil, and cook for a couple of minutes until the kernels have become opaque and look chalky.

Add the wine and cook, stirring, until the liquid has mostly been absorbed by the rice. Start adding the broth a ladleful at a time (about 1/2 cup), stirring and allowing most of the liquid to absorb before adding the next ladleful.

When you have about 1 cup of broth remaining, stir in the pumpkin purée and sliced chestnuts. Season with salt and pepper, then continue to add the remaining broth until it is used up. You want the texture to be creamy and smooth, and not thick and stodgy.

Finish the risotto by adding the Parmigiano-Reggiano, butter, and a squeeze of lemon juice.

Divide the risotto among 4 heated bowls and top with chopped hazelnuts.

Serves 4.


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